Xunantunich - Cayo, Western Belize

The entire area is a mass of Maya vibrancy. Without a doubt, a centre of great energy and one area worthwhile visiting is San Ignacio, Cayo, Belize. There are several sites including caves and river journeys worth exploring in the area.

My favourite site is that of Xunantunich (Stone Woman), located a few short miles from the Guatemalan border. A Classic Period Ceremonial Center with two main plaza's, a palace and a residential Complex according to Evan Mackie of Cambridge University, it was abandoned around 900 AD due to an earthquake.

Archaeologically speaking Xunantunich was first explored and looted by Thomas Gann a British Medical Officer in the 1890's. 'Teobert Mahler first visited the site in 1904 and later returned and took some smashing photographs in 1924. In 1938 J. Eric S. Thompson excavated the residential sector (Group B) and was followed in 1949 by P.H. Anderson and Linton Satterthwaite the following year. In 1952 and again in 1953 an amateur British Archaeologist, Michael Stewart recovered burial sites along with ceremonial caches also exploring Group 'C' of the complex, just south of the main plaza.

Peter Schmidt, the Archaeological Commissioner of Belize, excavated and consolidated several structures between 1968-71, in his footsteps, Joe Palacios consolidated the magnificent stucco frieze to the east side of the main structure. Today, you can also view the reconstruction of the stucco frieze located on the west side.

Further work on consolidation of Xunantunich was performed by Elizabeth Graham and salvage work was also performed by David Pendergrast and later by Harriot Topsey due to the nastiness of looting and the appearance of crevices in the larger structures. Recent and substantial work has been done by UCLA under the direction of Richard Leventhal.

Xunantunich rises above to the Western Highway at the town of Sukkotz and Benque Viejo. Since my first visit there in 1989 hitching a lift to the site was by far the best way to get there. You must cross the Mopan river at the base of the site on a hand cranked vehicle ferry.

The stelae from the main plaza have long been moved, and the pavilion at the entrance is well recommended for the curious, however the view from the top of the 'Castillo' (structure A-6) is absolutely magnificent and well worth the climb.
To enquire about other sites in the area, talk with my good friend Bob Jones, proprietor of 'Eva's' Restaurant and Cyber Cafe on Burns Avenue, in downtown San Ignacio.